Wednesday, October 27, 2021

Barcelona: Born Area Beautiful Flat Old Town Centre (Airbnb), Day 5 of 8

Walking Route: Apartment to Casa Mila and back, apartment to Mercato de Sant Antonio and back, 6.5 miles

Still on the hunt for Gaudi properties, we hiked to La Pedrera (Casa Mila) mid-morning and absorbed more art for a couple hours.

Casa Mila was commissioned by Pere Mila and Rosario Segimon, designed by Antoni Gaudi, and built in 1906-1912. The Mila family lived on the main floor and rented out apartments on the remaining floors. Retail space occupied the ground floor. Unusual for its time, the structure also included an underground garage.

The building was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984. The rooftop opened to visitors in 1987, and from 1987 to 1997, the building underwent renovations to turn it into a cultural center for the general public. Since then, the attic has opened as a gallery space showcasing Gaudi's major works in Barcelona, and an apartment decorated with period furnishings has opened to visitors.

Again, we were enchanted by the artistry and skill of Gaudi. It is easy to see the influence of the Art Nouveau period that trained him, as well as the natural and religious motifs that inspired his work. Experiencing the results is uplifting.

On our way back from Casa Mila, we walked along the high-end Avinguda Diagonal and passed another Gaudi work, Casa Batllo. If we have time, we may book a tour of that home or Casa Vicens.

After a short break at the apartment, we headed out in the opposite direction and explored the art district, with shops highlighting Catalan artisans, and then went to the Mercato de Sant Antonio to buy local foods for dinner. Another good day.

Gaudi's father was an ironworker, and Gaudi teamed with artisans who designed and constructed unusual balconies and other elements for his buildings.

The rooftop of Casa Mila is as beautifully designed as the rest of the structure. Gaudi included four stairwells; the taller white structure is one of them.

Chimneys resemble soldiers, guarding the residents.

Walkways allow visitors to flow through the rooftop features. Sturdy chain-link fencing keeps visitors safe. I wonder why Gaudi did not include artistic iron guardrails.

Even the rain gutters are works of art.

Two of the stairwells are each flanked by two arches. Three of the arches frame views of churches.

One set of chimneys is topped by green mosaic.

Inside the attic, with Gaudi's characteristic vaulting.

A scale model of Casa Mila.

Gaudi even designed pieces of furniture, capturing the essence of nature and ergonomics. 

Below the attic, an apartment has been decorated with typical period pieces. The rooms are somewhat plain, not large, not opulent. This is a children's room, situated in the servants' wing because maids would have looked after children during the night.

Typical of Spanish design, a central courtyard provides light and fresh air to inside rooms.

The kitchen was considered large and well-designed for its time.

I loved the white marble countertops throughout the kitchen and servants' dining area. I don't usually like white kitchens, but I did like the warmth and life that comes from hundred-year-old stone, scratched and cracked a little from use. 

The study was the only slightly dark room in the apartment.

Tall windows and spots of color brought life to the simple designs.

The bathrooms were surprisingly large and well-appointed for the early 1900s.

The views from the windows brought the streets and parks of Barcelona inside the rooms.

The iconic shapes and natural flow of Gaudi's designs are evident even in the door and window shapes and frames.

Simple ceiling designs continued the motif of nature.

The main door of Casa Mila uses the butterfly motif that inspires many of Gaudi's entryways.

The pillars and ceiling in the main vestibule use shapes and colors from nature.

On our walk back from Casa Mila, we passed Casa Batllo.

The facade of Casa Batllo is colorful and playful. It made me smile.

The play of sunlight and reflections on the curving surfaces and windows makes the surface of the building dance.

The building to the left of Casa Batllo is also interesting. On its own, I think it would be very appealing; next to Casa Batllo, it seemed clunky.