Tuesday, May 16, 2023

2023 United Kingdom, Day 21: Fishguard, Night 1 of 2

Bike Route: Tenby to Fishguard 45mi 3400ft of climb

Accommodation: Comfortable 2-Bedroom Annex (Airbnb); hosts Non and Ian. Private annex, 2 bedrooms, kitchen, wifi, washer.

Dinner: Rose and Crown, Goodwick. I had beef brisket with chips, Ken had pasta with prawns, and we shared everything. (We almost always share, unless Ken orders something weird like offal sausage or pig's ear, which I won't eat.)

We started the day with a small breakfast of farm-fresh eggs and cheddar cheese from our bag of goodies, plus several cups of coffee from the supplies in our room. We enjoyed a final chat with Leanne and Hugo (her four-year-old son), and a final pet of Shogi (the dog), and then we coasted down the hill and out of town.

The mileage was pretty high, and so was the total number of feet of climb, but the hills were not as steep and we were able to bike most of them--until the final one, which was straight up for half a mile. Again we had a beautiful day to be outside.

About halfway, we spotted a public toilet in a little park and stopped for the necessaries. As we were getting ready to leave, we turned around and saw a little cafe with a sign advertising homemade lunches. It was so easy, we couldn't pass it by. After a large bowl of cauliflower cheese soup and a bun, we hit the trail again.

Ken had seen Fishguard advertised as one of the prettiest harbor towns in Wales, so we booked an annex (apartment attached to the main house) for two nights. As we approached, it was pretty, but not as compelling as Tenby, we thought. Then we realized our annex was not actually in Fishguard, but a few miles around the harbor in Goodwick. The ride through Fishguard and parkland to Goodwick was nice, the hill up to our annex was very, very steep. We had a little trouble locating our accommodation, but luckily, our hosts had the house surrounded by scaffolding and had told us that, and we finally spotted it at the top of the hill.

Near the bottom of the hill, we had passed the Rose and Crown Restaurant. As soon as we checked in, we made reservations there, quickly showered, threw a load of laundry in the washing machine, and headed back out on foot. We had a pleasant dinner, hiked back up the hill, and happily crawled into bed.

Ken likes to send our friend David Brown photos of the David Brown tractor. This one is a little worse for the wear. Aren't we all?

The hedgerows are all in bloom--lovely to look at, sometimes hard to navigate. Many of the lanes we are on are very narrow, barely wide enough for a small car to fit, and the hedgerows are often over 10 feet high--and very solid. Someone once asked what we do when we meet a car, or truck, or tractor. Well, when we can, we pull ourselves and our bikes tight into the hedge and wait for the vehicle to pass. When that is not enough, we go back to a small pullout (there are usually several every mile) or farm gate access or whatever. Vehicle drivers are generally respectful, and we try to be also, finding ways to let each other pass. Yes, we have had a few close calls. But life is usually not completely safe if it is also interesting.

Gorse is also in full bloom in Wales. We suspect that is the main reason our noses run constantly.

We found another farm shop. This one had coffee walnut cake and pears. A few miles down the road, we found a nice spot to eat them.

Lamphey Palace was built by the bishops of St. Davids as a retreat center  in the mid-14th century.

Lamphey Palace.

A nice patch of soft moss. The perfect place to sunbathe. Or fall off your bike at the top of a hill.

The road behind...

...and the road ahead.

Fishguard, as viewed from the road outside our annex in Goodwick.