Tuesday, September 7, 2021

Pesquera de Ebro

Bike Route: Nela to Pesquera de Ebro, 30 miles, 2600 feet of climb

What a wonderful day of biking! We were on small highways and country roads along the river, up and down through a couple small mountain passes, along the edge of a wilderness area. Our route planner had put us on the Vias Verdes part of the time, but the route included river crossings, so we decided to go on paved roads--with bridges--instead.

Pesquera de Ebro is another small village, but big enough to have two restaurants. We had been able to find only one place available to rent within 50 miles of the village. That was a new, three-bedroom, four-bathroom guest house right in the middle of town. Unlike most guest houses, this one would rent only as a whole unit, not by the room. We didn't like spending the money for space we didn't need, but we really wanted to bike along the Ebro River. We are glad we went ahead and rented the house. The biking in that area is some of the best we have ever had.

We arrived a little early, and as always were hungry, so we went straight to the restaurant next to the guest house and ordered the full daily menu.

When we went back to the guest house, we could not find anyone around to let us in. There was no cell service in town, so I hiked up to the top of a hill on the edge of town, called the host, and had one of those difficult conversations where I know enough Spanish to say we have a reservation for that night, we have arrived, and could someone let us in. I don't know enough to understand what the other person is saying back, usually, but this time I was pretty sure he knew what I was saying and was on his way to open the door.

As I walked back, I was met by the proprietor of the restaurant, laughing and pointing to himself and his phone. He also runs the guest house.

So we had a whole big house to ourselves for the night. We had a washing machine and kitchen and patio. The WiFi did not connect to the internet and we had no cell service, but we were happy to have another quiet night of reading.

Oh, and we hiked back up to the top of the hill and called my brother to wish him a happy birthday. He didn't answer. Turns out he was trekking the Teton Crest Trail with his wife and daughter. Lucky guy. Lucky us. So many gorgeous places to explore in the world.

An actual bridge across the river! Even better, there was a little bar on one end, where we got cold drinks and chips.