It has finally happened--we are starting to lose track of the days. We get up every morning, bike awhile, walk awhile, eat awhile, read awhile, and sleep awhile. Every day has been sunny and mid-70s, every town and village has been welcoming and interesting and lovely. I'll try to remember some of the highlights from the past few days...
30 April 2019
Biked from Rethymno to Spili17.5 miles, 2,201 feet of climb
Rethymno to Spili Bike Route
Spili is a mountain village known for hiking, monasteries, and churches. We found a comfortable family-run hotel near the fountain in the center of town, and ate a home-cooked Cretan meal of dagos (brown bread covered with tomatoes, cheese, and olives) and rabbit, overlooking the valley.
Side note: I am writing this on the front porch of the hotel two days later. A young man just rode past on a beautiful small horse. A wedding procession passed in the direction he rode from a few hours ago; I wonder if he is the groom escaping :-).
 |
| Monastery on edge of Spili, as seen from the veranda where we ate dinner. |
1 May 2019
Biked from Spili to Zaros
39 miles, 2789 feet of climb (full confession: Ken biked the whole way. I took a taxi the last 6 miles/1000 feet)
Spili to Zaros Bike Route
Spili to Zaros Bike Route
Zaros is another small mountain village. Our accommodations were in a guesthouse just outside the village. Host Panos was welcoming and gave us great advice for hiking the nearby gorge.
Side note: We had planned to hike the big, famous Samaria Gorge next week, but Crete had an exceptionally rainy spring and that gorge will not open for hiking until after we leave Crete.
Quotes
"Crete is just one big mountain." Panos, our host in Zaros
"Around every switchback...is another switchback!" Me
 |
| Ken biking up one of the many stretches of climb to Zaros. Have I mentioned that Crete is hilly? |
2 May 2019
Biked to the trailhead for Rouvas Gorge and hiked the gorge up and back down
4 miles biking, 7 miles hiking, total 1000 feet climbing
Spent a second night at the guesthouse. It is nice to spend more than one night in a place; we start to feel at home, and find a favorite restaurant. Tonight was Cretan Thursday, with a buffet of every kind of Cretan home cooking. (Food becomes very important when you are outside moving around all day!)
 |
| Our favorite restaurant in Zaros. |
 |
| Monastery partway up the Rouvas Gorge. |
 |
| View from the gorge, looking down into the valley. |
3 May 2019
Biked from Zaros to Spili, including side trips to Phaesto Palace and a small folk museum in a little village called Vori.
No photos today! Too busy biking and sightseeing.
Back at Costa's Hotel in Spili, and the little taverna with a view across the street.
