Monday, 6 May 2019
Bike from Plakias to Hora Sfakion
30 miles 3137 feet of climb
Plakias to Hora Sfakion Bike Route
Hora Sfakion is at the end of the road--literally. From here, you can only take a ferry, or hike or mountain bike rugged trails, to move further along the southern coast of Crete. Well, most days you can take a ferry. The two days we were there, the wind and waves were too strong and travelers were stranded in the village. We struggled against the strong headwind and crosswind on our way down into the harbor. But the views, the seafood, and the best bakery we have found were ample reward.
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| Leaving Plakias behind. |
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| Crossing the gorge. |
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| The view from our second-floor apartment hanging over the harbor in Hora Sfakion. Breathtaking. |
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| Frangokastello: Venetian castle and settlement on the coast, about halfway between Plakias and Hora Sfakion. Built 1371-74. |
Tuesday, 7 May 2019
Biked straight up from Hora Sfakion to Asfikou
14 miles, 3104 feet of climb
Hora Sfakion to Asfikou Bike Route
Asfikou is one of four traditional villages nestled in a fertile valley shadowed by Mount Psiloritis, We stayed in a family-run guesthouse overlooking the valley, with home-cooked local food and an incredible view.
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| Ken counted 28 switchbacks climbing out of Hora Sfakion. |
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| Three tunnels made the climb interesting! |
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| Mount Psiloritis often has snow year-round. |
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| We tried to hike up to the ruin on top of a hill across the valley. We made it across the valley and most of the way around the base of the hill but were not able to find the trail up. When we asked someone in town about it later, she said, "Yes, very difficult. No way up." |
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| On our way back across the valley we found a family-run World War II museum with relics from all over the island, including this British courier's bike. |
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| And we found sheep. |
Wednesday, 8 May 2019
Biked from Asfikou to Vryses
14 miles, 600 feet of climb
This was an easy day--mostly downhill and short. It was also our coldest day so far--we broke out the tights and fleece jackets for the descent. In Vryses, we splurged on a whole apartment with a washer--renovated in a complex of old stone buildings near the center of town. It was nice to spread out, clean up, and relax for an afternoon.
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| Rush hour in a central mountain village |
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| Two rivers meet in the center of Vryses. The banks are lined by walkways and restaurants. |
Thursday, 9 May 2019
Bike from Vryses to Ancient Aptera to Chania
25 miles, 3000 feet of climbing (approximately; Ken's computer ran out of juice)
Nice, easy climb from Vryses to Vamos on a small, quiet road with great views. Another nice ride from Vamos down to Kalyves. Then we had to hop on the national road for a mile to get to the small road that would climb up to Ancient Aptera. The first police officer we have seen in the whole trip let us know that "Bikes are not allowed!" on the national road. We did make it to Aptera, wandered around the site for a while, ate a picnic lunch, and then joined the rush-hour traffic through Souda to Chania. Back to the beginning. We are settled in a quirky three-floor apartment for a couple of days to rest up for the next phase of our trip, the Pelion Peninsula.
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| Kalyves sparkled in the sun. |
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| Spring flowers in Ancient Aptera. |
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| The ruin of a house in the ancient city. |
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| The house was built around a patio with a roof supported by pillars. |
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| The theater in Ancient Aptera was used for plays only--no musical events or other festivities. |
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| A monastery was built on the Roman baths in the ancient city and operated until 1962. |
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| An Ottoman Fortress was built near Ancient Aptera. |
