Bike Route: Chawton to Southampton via Winchester 33mi 1700ft climb. Mile 20: Winchester lunch and cathedral stop
Accommodation: Great Double Room, Free Parking (Airbnb); host Lee. Shared bathroom, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi.
Dinner: Soleto Bistro. Italian-inspired meals made from fresh, local ingredients. I had seafood risotto and Ken had mussels in cream sauce. We shared a large salad. Well, actually, as usual, we shared everything.
Kate cooked a delicious full English breakfast while we chatted with Mark, petted the dogs, and learned more about the history of the cottage, village, and farm. Then we were off, down the gravel drive, back through the village, and on our way to the coast.
The first 5 miles or so were on a gravel path through parkland and woods. Then we wound our way through farms, hamlets, and small villages like Bighton. About the time we were getting hungry, the sun was out and we were making our way through city streets to the Cathedral at Winchester. It was market day on a bank holiday weekend, the city was bustling, and the front lawn of the cathedral was filled with families picnicking and soaking in the sun. Ken bought olives and Turkish delight candies to add to our cheddar cheese and crackers, and we found our own spot on the grass.
I peeked inside the cathedral and caught a glimpse of the gothic arches before a ticket seller approached. We could only get inside if we purchased expensive one-year tickets, and there was no secure place to lock the bikes, so we decided to just walk around the grounds. It was a beautiful day and the gardens were beginning to bloom, so we were not sorry to stay outside--though it would have been memorable to stand inside that great nave.
The rest of the ride took us down through ever-larger villages into the suburbs of Southampton. The Brits were staggering under an unexpected heatwave (22 degrees Celsius, or 72 degrees Fahrenheit). We stopped a couple of times to remove a layer, switch out long-fingered gloves for short, and drink water.
We arrived in Southampton early and were able to check in early. Our host was away, cycling on the Isle of Wight, so we had the house to ourselves. After showers we started a load of laundry and went in search of food. Our room was in the middle of a college community full of kebab, pizza, and beer restaurants, noisy, and crowded. Ken found an Italian restaurant a half mile away, where we escaped to a quieter, adult atmosphere and enjoyed an amazing meal. The owner/chef overheard us talking about France and stopped by to ask if we were French. It turned out that he was from Greece. When he immigrated to England and opened his restaurant, he named it after Soleto (in Puglia, Italy) and set a menu of Italian-inspired foods using fresh, local ingredients.
Usually we walk around after dinner, but it was cold and we wanted to check on our laundry, so we just went on back to our room and settled in for the night.
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| Riding through the bluebells. |
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| Tulips and daffodils in bloom around the base of Winchester Cathedral. |
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| We toured the outside of the cathedral to avoid leaving our bikes locked to the gate out front. They probably would have been okay, but we seldom take a chance when they are fully loaded. |
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| It was Saturday, market day in Winchester, and the front lawn of the cathedral was filled with people enjoying the sun. I was reminded of a glorious sunny day 19 years ago when Meghan and I visited the Wells Cathedral and found a similar crowded front lawn. I don't recall ever seeing people stroll through and picnic at cathedrals in the US. It seems like a very British thing to do. It's lovely. |
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| Ken and I joined the picnickers. |
